my birthday with 80% of the big 5



Grey Backed Crane

hey. This is costing me an arm and a leg so read fast. I can't believe it has been a week since mom posted our last bit of news. We met our group that night. We have a lovely group of people who I will try to describe to the side. There are only 12 of us on the tour, plus Steve our Australian tour guide and our two guide drivers Brian and Simon.




Steve

Simon and Brian, our handsome African guides

I am dying to tell you about Ngorongoro crater but first some back ground. As you know the trip got changed around a bit what with Kenya and all. Well, has this ever turned out to be in our favour. First off, there are less of us. Plus, Steve is a total bonus, we were only supposed to have local guides but Steve is awesome. He was brought here from Morroco to deal with all of the changes. New hotels, new tour company and guides. From what he has let slip, we are in better hotels, our tour company is way way better than the original one that was for Kenya. Apparently, the tour is running at a loss because of all of the mess. Yay for us.

Ok, Ngorongoro crater (from now on NG). We left Arusha the morning of my birthday, Feb 11. We arrived at our lodge in the afternoon. It was quite nice although I have to say there are some drawbacks to bush living. The power is only on in the mornings and the evenings, the water is brown and only on for morn/eve and usually not hot. But no worries, the view of the crater made up for any potential hardships. Photos cannot do the vista any sort of justice.



The view from the balcony (one third of it, I couldn't get the whole thing in one shot.

We started right off in the afternoon by descending into the crater. OH My GOD!!! It was crazy. Birds everywhere. I couldn't keep up, mom had to act as my bird secretary. I can't update my list, I don't have time but I am well over a hundred as of today.



Kori Bustard, the heaviest bird that can actually fly



Ostrich, the heaviest bird (who can't fly)

But the best part was the animals. I just don't have the language skills to describe seeing a bunch of elephants standing by a pool.

It was raining a bit so the guides were warning us that the animals don't like the rain but then we happened on a pride of 8 lions. Sleeping right beside the road!! Seriously, I could have reached out the window and touched the big male. It was insane.



The big male



See! She is sleeping right on the road!!

I took a million pictures. Then they all got up and yawned and shook and then just sauntered away. The whole day was like that. We saw Rhinos and buffalo and gazelles and more lions, zebras, wildebeast. The animals are so concentrated in there, you have no idea. If you ever go to Africa, this is definitely a must see.




Zebra



Rhino



Warthogs



Buffalo



This is how we spent most of the day!!

The next day we went back into the crater for the morning. It wasn't nearly as chock'o'block with animals this time. The guides kept telling us how lucky we were the day before. But it was still amazing to drive around with the zebras and buffalo and a million more birds. Lunch was interesting. We had boxed lunches which we ate at a picnic site. I had a piece of chicken leg which I was about to take a bite out of when a Black Kite (hawk) stole it right out of my hand. They don't fool around with Mcdonald's birds here. Guinea fowl and kites are begging here. That afternoon we went to the crater rim. Did I mention the view of the crater. Freakin' amazing (and we could see it from our room too which was on the rim). Anyway, the rim. Steve had set up a hike with a Masai guide.

Emmanuel, our Masai guide at the top of the mountain

We were right in Masai territory. They are allowed to graze in the crater but not live there so their villages surround the rim. They still live in traditional thatch round houses and tend their goats and cattle.



Masai village

The little kids are adorable. They get the goat herds to practise on, they stand by the road and wave to every car. I bought some jewellery from some of them so be nice to me when I get back if you want gifts. Anyway, the hike. We met up with a ranger because you aren't allowed to hike in the area without one, he had a rifle but I don't think he has had to use it, it was hard to get a straight answer out of him. Our Masai guide was Emmanuel. He is the animal doctor and he had his own herd. 27 years old, unmarried for those of you who voted that I would marry a Masai. You should have seen the lot of us trying to make it up this rocky mountain that Steve thought would be an easy hike. Steve who is whip thin, over 6 feet tall and never eats. Bahhh. The view was breathtaking though. Ok, I know that was not enough but I have to sign off, next time the Serengeti. We have been here 4 days now. jc

The great trek up (it doesn't look that hard in the picture)



We made it. Get used to pictures from tops of mountains, an accomplishment always worthy of photographic documentation (if only to remind myself)