Well, we are in Dar es Salaam for the night. Our tour breaks up today as only 3 of us are continuing on to the Gems of Africa portion (south TZ) of our tour. I am sad to see everyone go but also looking forward to having only one car with just the three of us, Steve and our driver/guide. We were supposed to lose both Brian and Simon and get a new guy. I think I mentioned that the guide company uses guides specific to north and south and our current guys are north but something happened and the south guy baled so we get to keep Simon. I am happy about that. He is the better birder of the two although, I have to say, Brian is very good looking. Priorties...
Let me try to remember what has been happening. When I last posted we were back in Arusha for a couple of hours. Just a stop to pick up some luggage for the girls. They have so much stuff and are so unworldly, Mom has taken to calling them Paris and Nicole. But they are sweet and kind so we forgive them their follies. Man, can they shop though! They must have a hundred necklaces and earrings each. Mom and I spent about 20 bucks in Arusha and they spent $600.
The girls in their 'hiking outfits'. But you have to admit they looked good
After Arusha we went to somewhere, that I have completely forgotten. check my itineray, I'm sure it was beautiful. hmm, that's not good. I will have pictures though.
After that place (?) we headed off to the Usumbara mountains. We climbed and climbed. We headed uphill in the cars for hours. You wouldn't believe what these people will farm on. The steepest hills are tilled and planted. People were walking up the roads that would have killed me and they had buckets of water or massive bales of who knows what balanced on their heads. It continually amazes me what Africans do to survive on a day to day basis. Stuff we wouldn't consider ever. I have a new understanding of the tale of the Three Pigs. We see straw houses, stick houses and brick houses. The drivers have explianed that they don't have banks so people put their money into houses. They live in a mud hut with a straw roof until they can afford wood and tin. All the while they are slowly building a brick house somewhere in the area. Those are the ones with some money.
Usumbara mountains: we got to what seemed the top of the world to get to Muller Lodge. It was lovely again. They have chosen the best accommodations. This place had little row houses so all the singles were in one chalet and the marrieds in another. Again, an excellent view and the climate was so nice after the hot dusty drives. It is quite temperate and green. We actually had to put on jackets in the evening.
Our full day here was spent on one of two optional walks. I chose the hard walk. After missing out on the Kilimanjaro walk (oh yeah, that's were we were) I refused to wimp out again. So off we go at 9 am with Francis our guide. I liked the look of Francis cause he was tiny and looked slow. It turns out he is 73 and could kick all of our asses, but I digress. We start up a road and Francis is being very nice and slow and stopping often to point out various trees and such, a few monkeys. all good. We walk for 90 minutes or so when he asks if we want to take a short cut. I don't think we answered fast enough cause off he veers into the jungle, down a goat path, over streams, and then up. No, I mean UP! We finally get to the top of the shortcut and then we see a staircase cut out of the hill. Oh my god. I thought I was going to have a heart attack but I was so insistant that I go on the hard walk I couldn't complain. But I made it and I kept up with the big boys. At the top, there was a little lookout and a beautiful view.
So we sat around for 20 or so minutes, quite proud of ourselves and saying how we finished the walk early when Francis points out a peak about 3 mountains away. We all admire it until he announces that that is our next stop. I know you don't believe me but it was so far away we could barely see it in the distance. So down we go. Goat path is too kind for the down path, it was scrabbly with volcanic shards of rock. It is amazing no one fell and was impaled but we managed. Francis was no longer stopping to identify things so we were moving at a good clip. Then we crossed miles and miles of corn farms and villages and colonial plantations that had been taken over during the 'revolution' but which were subsequently abandoned.
Long story short, we made it, were very proud of ourselves and took lots of pictures of the view. The top of the second mountain is called Islenes peak, I think.
I sprang for another 30 minutes so I guess I will mention the clearly unmemorable Kilimanjaro. It is unmemorable because I opted not to climb to base camp with Steve and the boys.
We walked around the villages in Marangu where we were staying. Our hotel was lovely again. It was a hundred year old colonial house and out buildings. The gardens were amazing. They even had a bird list in all of the rooms of birds seen on the grounds. There were over 220, but i only saw about 4. I'm not trying that hard anymore but once we go south with Simon, I am back on. Anyway. When the boys got back they said that the hike up the mountain wasn't that hard but the air got pretty thin. I really am kicking myself but who knew. I didn't want to slow the long legged ones down. I am all about the self sacrifice, don't you know.
Tonight we are going to a goodbye dinner at a restaurant chosen by Brian and Simon so that should be interesting. Our one African meal was delicious so I have high hopes.
Let me try to remember what has been happening. When I last posted we were back in Arusha for a couple of hours. Just a stop to pick up some luggage for the girls. They have so much stuff and are so unworldly, Mom has taken to calling them Paris and Nicole. But they are sweet and kind so we forgive them their follies. Man, can they shop though! They must have a hundred necklaces and earrings each. Mom and I spent about 20 bucks in Arusha and they spent $600.
The girls in their 'hiking outfits'. But you have to admit they looked good
After Arusha we went to somewhere, that I have completely forgotten. check my itineray, I'm sure it was beautiful. hmm, that's not good. I will have pictures though.
 |
| Mt Kilimanjaro (which I didn't climb) |
After that place (?) we headed off to the Usumbara mountains. We climbed and climbed. We headed uphill in the cars for hours. You wouldn't believe what these people will farm on. The steepest hills are tilled and planted. People were walking up the roads that would have killed me and they had buckets of water or massive bales of who knows what balanced on their heads. It continually amazes me what Africans do to survive on a day to day basis. Stuff we wouldn't consider ever. I have a new understanding of the tale of the Three Pigs. We see straw houses, stick houses and brick houses. The drivers have explianed that they don't have banks so people put their money into houses. They live in a mud hut with a straw roof until they can afford wood and tin. All the while they are slowly building a brick house somewhere in the area. Those are the ones with some money.
 |
| An example of a mud house, with boy in front |
 |
| Another house, this time with goat in front |
Usumbara mountains: we got to what seemed the top of the world to get to Muller Lodge. It was lovely again. They have chosen the best accommodations. This place had little row houses so all the singles were in one chalet and the marrieds in another. Again, an excellent view and the climate was so nice after the hot dusty drives. It is quite temperate and green. We actually had to put on jackets in the evening.
 |
| View from our room at Muller's Lodge |
 |
| Muller's lodge |
Our full day here was spent on one of two optional walks. I chose the hard walk. After missing out on the Kilimanjaro walk (oh yeah, that's were we were) I refused to wimp out again. So off we go at 9 am with Francis our guide. I liked the look of Francis cause he was tiny and looked slow. It turns out he is 73 and could kick all of our asses, but I digress. We start up a road and Francis is being very nice and slow and stopping often to point out various trees and such, a few monkeys. all good. We walk for 90 minutes or so when he asks if we want to take a short cut. I don't think we answered fast enough cause off he veers into the jungle, down a goat path, over streams, and then up. No, I mean UP! We finally get to the top of the shortcut and then we see a staircase cut out of the hill. Oh my god. I thought I was going to have a heart attack but I was so insistant that I go on the hard walk I couldn't complain. But I made it and I kept up with the big boys. At the top, there was a little lookout and a beautiful view.
 |
| The group enjoying the view from the first peak |
 |
| Joanne in a hut at the top of the first mountain |
So we sat around for 20 or so minutes, quite proud of ourselves and saying how we finished the walk early when Francis points out a peak about 3 mountains away. We all admire it until he announces that that is our next stop. I know you don't believe me but it was so far away we could barely see it in the distance. So down we go. Goat path is too kind for the down path, it was scrabbly with volcanic shards of rock. It is amazing no one fell and was impaled but we managed. Francis was no longer stopping to identify things so we were moving at a good clip. Then we crossed miles and miles of corn farms and villages and colonial plantations that had been taken over during the 'revolution' but which were subsequently abandoned.
 |
| Francis showing us the abandoned house on the coffee platation. It was completely empty except for two tubs. |
Long story short, we made it, were very proud of ourselves and took lots of pictures of the view. The top of the second mountain is called Islenes peak, I think.
 |
| Ok... Look at this picture from the top of the first mountain we climbed. The small mountain peak second from the right is the second peak we climbed. I told you it was far away. |
 |
| Another picture of Joanne at the top of a mountain (the 2nd peak of the day) |
 |
| Simon mugging for the camera after our long hike |
I sprang for another 30 minutes so I guess I will mention the clearly unmemorable Kilimanjaro. It is unmemorable because I opted not to climb to base camp with Steve and the boys.
 |
| Another view of Mt Kilimanjaro |
We walked around the villages in Marangu where we were staying. Our hotel was lovely again. It was a hundred year old colonial house and out buildings. The gardens were amazing. They even had a bird list in all of the rooms of birds seen on the grounds. There were over 220, but i only saw about 4. I'm not trying that hard anymore but once we go south with Simon, I am back on. Anyway. When the boys got back they said that the hike up the mountain wasn't that hard but the air got pretty thin. I really am kicking myself but who knew. I didn't want to slow the long legged ones down. I am all about the self sacrifice, don't you know.
Tonight we are going to a goodbye dinner at a restaurant chosen by Brian and Simon so that should be interesting. Our one African meal was delicious so I have high hopes.
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