a hippo in our yard

It has now taken me over 10 minutes to sign on so this has to be short. We had our goodbye dinner with most of our group in Dar es Salaam. the dinner was very Mexican if I had to catagorize. The pre-dinner entertainment was pirated DVD salesmen doing the rounds. They did a brisk trade but Mom and I held out. Dinner was bbq, i had chicken and mom had fish. We both left still hungry but it was fun. We went back to the hotel and some of us (the girls, me, Steve, Brian) stayed up and had a few more beer and tried out the casino. that was the girls idea and money. None of the rest of us were willing to put our money on African odds. it was a fun night and we didn't leave the casino until after 3 am.

Indulge me a few pictures from our last night together.



Our last night as a group, dinner in a real African restaurant. From left: John, Brian, Trevor and Carol



Lisa and Alan



Phillip

Francios



Tanya and Katrina outside of the Casino at 2am

The next morning I was feeling pretty worse for wear but I figured the day was going to be spent driving to Selous park. it was supposed to be a 7 hour drive. Well nobody mentioned that it was the worst roads in Africa. Now I know why the south isn't visited by tourists very often. Yikes. We were actually lifting off of our seats. It was pretty funny but I was dying, hung over and dead tired. We eventually got to the Rufiji River resort. This river is remote but gorgeous. We were so wiped that we just had dinner and went to bed. We couldn't face any activities. The resort has tents for rooms. They were very nice and the bathrooms were first rate believe it or not.



Our tent at Rufiji River

A Vervet Monkey, they live right in the camp.

Mom writing in her journal in the dining room at Rufiji River Camp

We were not allowed to walk around camp after dark. We had to have a Masai escort. It seemed a bit contrived on the first night when we were escorted to our tents but during the night we could here the hippos in the river right by our tent. Mom woke up to hyenas in the area. Simon at the other end of camp had a hippo looking at him when he woke up. And the next day he was face to face with an elephant. The drivers get the cool yet dangerous end of camp.



The Hippos were right outside

The next morning we took a boat tour where we happened on a mother elephant and her small calf. We are still excited about elephants so we took a million pictures again until our boat almost bumped into her. She left at that point. But we saw lots and lots of birds (18 new ones) and hippos, hippos and more hippos.



Mother elephant with her baby at the river's edge



Steve and Mom on the boat for our river safari



Crocodile



Fish Eagles



A yellow billed stork



view from the boat

Meals here were much more simple. You got what you got. But dinner always started with a pasta course and lunch with the best soup we have had at any resort so far. We did an evening game drive where we saw little. The next day we did a morning walking tour. I don't have sufficient time to properly describe the experience. We saw some giraffes etc but the best part was the guides. We had a young guy as our official guide and then an older guy as our ranger with the rifle. But he wouldn't let the young guy talk. And he kept quizzing us. And not letting us continue until we got the right answer. I now know way to much about giraffe dung. He would as these obscure questions and we would guess at an answer. We were pretty much always wrong and he would give us this look like we were pitiful fools. Then he would wait for us to guess again. It was so funny that we started just guessing wrong for the entertainment value.
Mr. ranger also took a shine to me so there was alot of keeping me back so we could discuss bird trivia. We may actually be engaged in the culture. I hope he doesn't have access to my sign in forms. Yikes.



Joanne with the creepy ranger



Giraffe watching us on our walking tour



A Thompson's Gazelle on our walking tour

By the way, on our last night, there was a hippo right ourside our tent. Freaked us right out but it was fun. Still didn't keep me from sleeping.

Another evening game drive, lots and lots of animals but still no leopards or wild dogs. We are running out of time for them. Oh well. I feel bad for Simon, he seems to be taking it personally that he hasn't found one.

Mom was always looking for the perfect African sunset, I think this is the best one from Rufiji River.

Another gruelling day in the car today to leave. we are currently in Morogoro. I really can't tell you where it is, some mountain range or other. Just for the night and then we head on to Ruhua park.

1 minute to go, I will try to post this.

Usumbara Mountains aka Little Switzerland

Well, we are in Dar es Salaam for the night. Our tour breaks up today as only 3 of us are continuing on to the Gems of Africa portion (south TZ) of our tour. I am sad to see everyone go but also looking forward to having only one car with just the three of us, Steve and our driver/guide. We were supposed to lose both Brian and Simon and get a new guy. I think I mentioned that the guide company uses guides specific to north and south and our current guys are north but something happened and the south guy baled so we get to keep Simon. I am happy about that. He is the better birder of the two although, I have to say, Brian is very good looking. Priorties...

Let me try to remember what has been happening. When I last posted we were back in Arusha for a couple of hours. Just a stop to pick up some luggage for the girls. They have so much stuff and are so unworldly, Mom has taken to calling them Paris and Nicole. But they are sweet and kind so we forgive them their follies. Man, can they shop though! They must have a hundred necklaces and earrings each. Mom and I spent about 20 bucks in Arusha and they spent $600.

The girls in their 'hiking outfits'. But you have to admit they looked good

After Arusha we went to somewhere, that I have completely forgotten. check my itineray, I'm sure it was beautiful. hmm, that's not good. I will have pictures though.



Mt Kilimanjaro (which I didn't climb)

After that place (?) we headed off to the Usumbara mountains. We climbed and climbed. We headed uphill in the cars for hours. You wouldn't believe what these people will farm on. The steepest hills are tilled and planted. People were walking up the roads that would have killed me and they had buckets of water or massive bales of who knows what balanced on their heads. It continually amazes me what Africans do to survive on a day to day basis. Stuff we wouldn't consider ever. I have a new understanding of the tale of the Three Pigs. We see straw houses, stick houses and brick houses. The drivers have explianed that they don't have banks so people put their money into houses. They live in a mud hut with a straw roof until they can afford wood and tin. All the while they are slowly building a brick house somewhere in the area. Those are the ones with some money.



An example of a mud house, with boy in front



Another house, this time with goat in front

Usumbara mountains: we got to what seemed the top of the world to get to Muller Lodge. It was lovely again. They have chosen the best accommodations. This place had little row houses so all the singles were in one chalet and the marrieds in another. Again, an excellent view and the climate was so nice after the hot dusty drives. It is quite temperate and green. We actually had to put on jackets in the evening.



View from our room at Muller's Lodge



Muller's lodge

Our full day here was spent on one of two optional walks. I chose the hard walk. After missing out on the Kilimanjaro walk (oh yeah, that's were we were) I refused to wimp out again. So off we go at 9 am with Francis our guide. I liked the look of Francis cause he was tiny and looked slow. It turns out he is 73 and could kick all of our asses, but I digress. We start up a road and Francis is being very nice and slow and stopping often to point out various trees and such, a few monkeys. all good. We walk for 90 minutes or so when he asks if we want to take a short cut. I don't think we answered fast enough cause off he veers into the jungle, down a goat path, over streams, and then up. No, I mean UP! We finally get to the top of the shortcut and then we see a staircase cut out of the hill. Oh my god. I thought I was going to have a heart attack but I was so insistant that I go on the hard walk I couldn't complain. But I made it and I kept up with the big boys. At the top, there was a little lookout and a beautiful view.



The group enjoying the view from the first peak



Joanne in a hut at the top of the first mountain

So we sat around for 20 or so minutes, quite proud of ourselves and saying how we finished the walk early when Francis points out a peak about 3 mountains away. We all admire it until he announces that that is our next stop. I know you don't believe me but it was so far away we could barely see it in the distance. So down we go. Goat path is too kind for the down path, it was scrabbly with volcanic shards of rock. It is amazing no one fell and was impaled but we managed. Francis was no longer stopping to identify things so we were moving at a good clip. Then we crossed miles and miles of corn farms and villages and colonial plantations that had been taken over during the 'revolution' but which were subsequently abandoned.



Francis showing us the abandoned house on the coffee platation. It was completely empty except for two tubs.

Long story short, we made it, were very proud of ourselves and took lots of pictures of the view. The top of the second mountain is called Islenes peak, I think.



Ok... Look at this picture from the top of the first mountain we climbed. The small mountain peak second from the right is the second peak we climbed. I told you it was far away.



Another picture of Joanne at the top of a mountain (the 2nd peak of the day)



Simon mugging for the camera after our long hike

I sprang for another 30 minutes so I guess I will mention the clearly unmemorable Kilimanjaro.  It is unmemorable because I opted not to climb to base camp with Steve and the boys.



Another view of Mt Kilimanjaro

We walked around the villages in Marangu where we were staying. Our hotel was lovely again. It was a hundred year old colonial house and out buildings. The gardens were amazing. They even had a bird list in all of the rooms of birds seen on the grounds. There were over 220, but i only saw about 4. I'm not trying that hard anymore but once we go south with Simon, I am back on. Anyway. When the boys got back they said that the hike up the mountain wasn't that hard but the air got pretty thin. I really am kicking myself but who knew. I didn't want to slow the long legged ones down. I am all about the self sacrifice, don't you know.

Tonight we are going to a goodbye dinner at a restaurant chosen by Brian and Simon so that should be interesting. Our one African meal was delicious so I have high hopes.

Serengeti

This may be the same info mom is writing since she is posting at the same time as me. So after we left NG crater we headed for the Serengeti. The two parks are actually attached but are quite different. The plains of NG park were just full of grazing animals, gazelles, herds of wildebeasts, more types of gazelles (there are alot of gazelle species). Once we passed into the Serengeti things slowed down considerably but it was still beautiful. The landscape is very different from the crater, even the NG plains which were much greener and lusher.



The Serengeti (an acacia tree from a moving car)

Actually, since we missed the migration of the wildebeasts (we saw the very tail end) the place was pretty empty. We did go to one area that seemed to be the nursery with baby wildebeasts, zebras and warthogs. Some of the wildebeast seemed to be only a few hours old but we didn't actually see a birth.



Baby wildebeasts

I got lots of birds though. I had hoped to have time to list them but I don't think today.



Maribo Storks waiting...



Lilac Breasted Roller



White Backed Vultures mating (on Valentine's Day!)

Serengeti was our big hope to see a leopard. There was one in the area, easy to find the right spot by the 25 vehicles jockeying for a good view. So we parked and scanned and moved and scanned. After about an hour of great discussion among the african guides it was found laying in the grass under a bush. Almost invisible. Even when we knew where it was, most of our group couldn't see it. I, on the other hand, have the most amazing binoculars and camera so was able to see it and sort of photograph it. You will laugh when you see the picture. It looks like grass with a dark spot near the centre.



My best photo of the elusive leopard. I still can't swear it is actually there

All of the safari cars jockeying to see the invisible leopard.

 After we end up in Dar es Salaam, most of our group is going to Zanzibar, only Mom, me and John are going on to the second half, the Gems of Africa part. I mention this now because Steve assures us the we three will have more opportunities to see leopards and even wild dogs once we head south.

We spent four days in the Serengeti. We have been staying in these crazy lodges owned by a chain called Wildlife Lodges. They were all built in the sixites and they have just been bought by some group or other. We have stayed in four of them, and they are all under reno. They are spectacular. They are built into 'kopjes' which are volcanic rock outcrops pluncked into the middle of the Serengeti. So the buildings use the natural rock formations and wood beams and all natural bits.



One of the Wildlife Lodges built right into a kopje



An example of a smaller kopje, they are like little self contained ecosystems

The lodges are gorgeous and every room has an amazing view. The plumbing hasn't been upgraded yet unfortunately so showers are an adventure travel in themselves. And the power usually goes off around midnight, makes charging my batteries difficult. Although the first night in NG, when the power went off I was still in the common area so we went outside to look at the African night sky. a bazillion stars.

Because of the changes to the tour, one of our nights in the Serengeti, we couldn't book into the Wilderness lodge so we had to stay at the Sopa Lodge. oh so swank. It was at least two stars up from our usual accomodations. We were like kids at the circus, we were all so excited to have power all night and the showers... I can't even discribe how wonderful it was to have water pressure and tempurature control. Major scrub down. it was only one night though and back to 'adventure travel' which is what our tour company call the middle budget tours.

Our group is excellent. Steve the leader has been in the business for ten years and he claims we are one of the best groups he has had. Nice mix of genders, ages, nationalities and married vs single. (I also think, sexualities but that is open for debate) . We all get along great and generally hang out in the bar quite a bit after dinner. the beer is pretty cheap. Paul, I have to let you know, Tusker is not the taste test winner, personally I like Serengeti. The dinners are not at all what we expected. A buffet every night, with dessert buffet to boot, often for lunch too. yikes. We are still in the same size pants but it could get worrisome. We are out of the Wildlife lodges now so I don't know what is next.

After the Serengeti (this is jumping around a bit, but no time to edit) we went to Lake Manyara. Mom tells me that she is writing about the elephants so I will skip the amazingness of having a herd of elephants surrounding our vehicle. I have pictures, of course.

On our second day in Lk Manyara we spent the day doing a cultural tour. it was interesting and probably described by mom but I have to mention the kids. We visited a kindergarten and the kids were so cute, I could only stuff one in my bag so Mel, you can't have one. When we left the school another class if slightly older kids was just getting out. They rushed at us like we were the Beatles in 1969. We were swarmed. They wanted to hold our hands and have us take their pictures then show them their pictures. They stayed with us for much of the tour. I have a million pictures of adorable little faces pressed up to my camera lens.



Joanne showing the kids their pictures



The kindergarten class singing us a song



"take my picutre, take my picture"



Lots and lots of kids



Joanne with still more kids

Then we had a traditional African lunch which was delicious, if not a bit scary. I'm sure they westernized it somewhat so we would actually eat.



"Mama" making us lunch

our traditional African lunch

After lunch half of the group (including me but not mom) opted to go for a hike from town, Mto Wa Mbo (mosquito river) to the lake edge. It was a good two hours to the lake. it was very hot but fortuanely, it was overcast and a bit breezy so we didn't die but I did burn the backs of my arms. Not too bad though. But the walk was through plains with zebras and wildebeests. we just walked along, they kept their distance, but it was pretty amazing to walk around with them as opposed to viewing from the jeep.



Joanne on the Lake Manyara hike, hanging with the zebras



Lake Manyara once we finally got there, lots of water birds, including flamingos

I am running out of time but I have to say it is not at all what I expected here. or actually, it is what I expected but wouldn't allow myself to believe. It is rural and beautiful. The towns are small and the people are beyond friendly. "Jambo" (hello) follows us everywhere. I feel a bit creepy, looking at people from my perch while they go about their lives. I feel like a total intruder but we keep getting assured that the people here are very welcoming and glad to have us. I want to take more pictures of people but I am not comfortable asking that often since it seems like a real intrusion just to ask, let alone take the picture.



Two women outside of their house (they said yes to photos)

Woman carrying bananas (you can tell by the back of the head angle that we didn't ask if we could take this one)

On our cultural tour, we wandered around a village that is supported by the community group that runs the program. They have demonstations of traditional carving and painting. No pressure to buy but you know I did. I bought a carved rosewood bowl and a cut knife painting (cause you know I need another painting in my house).



An African art gallery, outside and beautiful



A carving demonstration

I couldn't believe people didn't mind us popping up in their yards but they were so nice to us. Some of the group have asked to take pictures and it is about 50/50 for people who say yes. There is definitely no getting around that we are tourists. We stand out like a termite mound on the flat serengeti plains.

By the way, I forgot to mention that we went to the Olduvai Gorge. The Anth people will understand that this was too thrilling for words. The cradle of mankind!! Where the Leakeys worked!!! I wanted to go down into the gorge but I guess that is a no-no so instead I bought a T-shirt.



Entance to the 'Oldupai" museum. Apparently when the Germans first found out about this place they misunderstood and called it Olduvai and that has stuck in all of the Anthrolopogy references



See!! The Leakeys!! Mary and Louis Leakey!! Were right here, where I was!! (although, not at the same time)



Joanne at the rim of Olduvai Gorge

ok, my computer is flashing that time is almost up. Just to let you know, I had 30 emails so i couldn't read them all. I tried to read at least one from everyone but I couldn't respond. I am thinking of all of you. Are the cats still alive? Don't answer that unless it is yes.

We will be closer to the internet for the next bit so I will try to catch up with the correspondence soon. finally tanned, Joanne ps sorry it is so long.