Tuesday, January 29, 2008
Muriel's turn
Now that Joanne has taken us through the anxiety phase of our trip (are we going? will it be safe? which shoes should I take) I will add a few cents worth. When we started planning this adventure it all seemed so far off and we had all the time in the world to prepare. Well, here we are, one week from departure and still preparing. I am going to Victoria a few days early so that Jo and I can pack and repack, and probably rerepack. We will have a hard time paring our clothes and accessories down but we will be very firm with each other. It is so thrilling to be going on this once in lifetime holiday! After all these years of Discovery Channel and african nature shows, we will finally see those lions and elephants and all the other neat stuff. Neat stuff is the scientific word for flora, fauna, geography, culture, food and colour. We will take tons of pictures and hope that we will be able to find a computer now and then to post some of them. Stay tuned, we will be posting whenever we can.
Monday, January 28, 2008
We're back on!!
9 days to go.
It was starting to look more and more dicey for the trip but Marylyn called on Tuesday and said the tour company had revised the itinerary to avoid Kenya. I guess their insurance carrier wouldn't cover them if the travel advisory was still in place. We weren't out of the woods yet though. There was some question of us being able to get a flight from Nairobi (way too late to change our flights to avoid Kenya all together) to the Kilimanjaro Airport. The European guests has an 8 hour head start on us and had snapped up most of the seats on the connector flights. Marylyn came through once again, organized flights, hotels and transfers plus cancellation of the Nairobi hotel etc. I won't even complain about the new 12 hour lay over in Nairobi where we aren't supposed to leave the airport. Yikes, bring an extra novel.
So now the tour is starting in Arushu, Tanzania and we won't be visiting any of the Kenya stops. I was really looking forward to the Oldavai Gorge but now I see in today's news that this is the area with the worst violence. Things seemed to be getting better over the weekend. The UN envoy had arrived and the opposing leaders were shaking hands but by Monday that was all a distant memory and the death toll was rising fast. So just as well that we are avoiding the whole thing.
I have updated the Tour Intinary (post 2 - Jan 10 '08) to show the changes, I left the original tour in blue so you can compare and contrast if you so choose.
Ok, so no more updates on Kenya. I can go back to discussing more important issues such as should I take boots AND shoes or just boots or just shoes. (yes, I realize that I should be and am forever thankful for my lot in life as a rich North American who has the luxury of such trivial problems).
It was starting to look more and more dicey for the trip but Marylyn called on Tuesday and said the tour company had revised the itinerary to avoid Kenya. I guess their insurance carrier wouldn't cover them if the travel advisory was still in place. We weren't out of the woods yet though. There was some question of us being able to get a flight from Nairobi (way too late to change our flights to avoid Kenya all together) to the Kilimanjaro Airport. The European guests has an 8 hour head start on us and had snapped up most of the seats on the connector flights. Marylyn came through once again, organized flights, hotels and transfers plus cancellation of the Nairobi hotel etc. I won't even complain about the new 12 hour lay over in Nairobi where we aren't supposed to leave the airport. Yikes, bring an extra novel.
So now the tour is starting in Arushu, Tanzania and we won't be visiting any of the Kenya stops. I was really looking forward to the Oldavai Gorge but now I see in today's news that this is the area with the worst violence. Things seemed to be getting better over the weekend. The UN envoy had arrived and the opposing leaders were shaking hands but by Monday that was all a distant memory and the death toll was rising fast. So just as well that we are avoiding the whole thing.
I have updated the Tour Intinary (post 2 - Jan 10 '08) to show the changes, I left the original tour in blue so you can compare and contrast if you so choose.
Ok, so no more updates on Kenya. I can go back to discussing more important issues such as should I take boots AND shoes or just boots or just shoes. (yes, I realize that I should be and am forever thankful for my lot in life as a rich North American who has the luxury of such trivial problems).
Tuesday, January 22, 2008
Countdown to a Letdown?
15 days to go but are we actually going? Hopefully.
Mom and I have already discussed our plans and still have no problem venturing forth. I visited Marylyn, our excellent travel agent, on Friday to pick up our tickets and final itinerary . She still says that the clients they have in Kenya are saying it isn't that bad. But if things there continue to deteriorate the Tour Operators might cancel for safety reasons. If that happens, I suppose I will have to defer to their superior on-the-ground wisdom.
Another possiblity is that too many other people who have booked the tour will freak out and cancel. Apparently, cancellation insurance will cover cancellations if there has been a travel advisory issued for the destination country (in this case, Kenya). But people can't cancel until 10 days before their departure date. So if people are going to cancel, they have to wait until the end of this week or early next week. Which means we won't know if the tour is still on until the end of the month. That's 10 days!! Let's hope the others realize adventure travel might actually contain some real adventure without bailing.
Marylyn covered all bases and advised me that we should have enough food & water and other essentials to last for 24 hours in case a coup happens while we are in the air and we are trapped in the airport. I said it would be cool to be in a coup so I would have a good story to tell. I think that was the moment that Marylyn realized she was dealing with an idiot. Then she printed up the Canadian embassy's address and mapped out an escape route. Apparently we need to get to South Africa. Most other flights from Africa route through Nairobi. Not good during a violent overthrow. Ok, she was being a bit mother henny. We even called the health insurance folks to see if our medical coverage will cover bullet wounds due to 'civil unrest' (no), broken leg running from 'civil unrest' (maybe) or lion attack (yes, as long as the lion isn't involved in the 'civil unrest').
I bought my Tilly Hat though. So really, that has to mean we are good to go. Cross your fingers.
Mom and I have already discussed our plans and still have no problem venturing forth. I visited Marylyn, our excellent travel agent, on Friday to pick up our tickets and final itinerary . She still says that the clients they have in Kenya are saying it isn't that bad. But if things there continue to deteriorate the Tour Operators might cancel for safety reasons. If that happens, I suppose I will have to defer to their superior on-the-ground wisdom.
Another possiblity is that too many other people who have booked the tour will freak out and cancel. Apparently, cancellation insurance will cover cancellations if there has been a travel advisory issued for the destination country (in this case, Kenya). But people can't cancel until 10 days before their departure date. So if people are going to cancel, they have to wait until the end of this week or early next week. Which means we won't know if the tour is still on until the end of the month. That's 10 days!! Let's hope the others realize adventure travel might actually contain some real adventure without bailing.
Marylyn covered all bases and advised me that we should have enough food & water and other essentials to last for 24 hours in case a coup happens while we are in the air and we are trapped in the airport. I said it would be cool to be in a coup so I would have a good story to tell. I think that was the moment that Marylyn realized she was dealing with an idiot. Then she printed up the Canadian embassy's address and mapped out an escape route. Apparently we need to get to South Africa. Most other flights from Africa route through Nairobi. Not good during a violent overthrow. Ok, she was being a bit mother henny. We even called the health insurance folks to see if our medical coverage will cover bullet wounds due to 'civil unrest' (no), broken leg running from 'civil unrest' (maybe) or lion attack (yes, as long as the lion isn't involved in the 'civil unrest').
I bought my Tilly Hat though. So really, that has to mean we are good to go. Cross your fingers.
Monday, January 14, 2008
Packing for a Civil War
Just 21 days until we leave.
You may have heard that Kenya seems to be having some social issues of late. They had an election and some guy won and some other guy disagreed with his victory. One thing led to another and tribal confict and chaos ensued. You can read about it on the BBC website called "Kenya in Crisis" (the name doesn't bode well) http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/in_depth/africa/2008/kenya/default.stm. Now, instead of people asking are we ready or excited or packed, we get "are you still going?" Yes, we are still going, for two reasons. 1. We are assured by our awesome travel agent MaryLyn that she has heard from other clients who are in Kenya right now and they say all is fine. 2. Our cancellation insurance does not cover acts of war. 3rd bonus reason, Me and Mom are cool enough to travel to rogue states.
Seriously, I am more worried about what to pack and if I can ever stop buying things using the excuse that it's for my trip.
My packing list so far:
clothes. (specifics still to be determined)
Tilley Hat (as yet unpurchased)
Hiking boots, walking shoes, sandals, bandaids
Books: bird book, Lonely Planet, two novels (small font, many pages)
Book light, head lamp
Binoculars (Christmas gift from Paul and Katherine - totally awesome)
Cameras - one mini for pocket and one 10X zoom for safari closeups
Extra memory cards for the cameras.
Battery recharger, extra batteries
Malaria medication
bug spray, sunscreen, sunglasses
Toiletries
Laundry soap, laundry line, sink stopper
Travel Pillow, water bottle
Big Back pack, small day pack, cool over the shoulder hunting sachel from Capital Iron (with bullet holders although I probably won't take bullets)
Well, I'm sure that more will be added but those are the very basics that I can remember right now.
You may have heard that Kenya seems to be having some social issues of late. They had an election and some guy won and some other guy disagreed with his victory. One thing led to another and tribal confict and chaos ensued. You can read about it on the BBC website called "Kenya in Crisis" (the name doesn't bode well) http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/in_depth/africa/2008/kenya/default.stm. Now, instead of people asking are we ready or excited or packed, we get "are you still going?" Yes, we are still going, for two reasons. 1. We are assured by our awesome travel agent MaryLyn that she has heard from other clients who are in Kenya right now and they say all is fine. 2. Our cancellation insurance does not cover acts of war. 3rd bonus reason, Me and Mom are cool enough to travel to rogue states.
Seriously, I am more worried about what to pack and if I can ever stop buying things using the excuse that it's for my trip.
My packing list so far:
clothes. (specifics still to be determined)
Tilley Hat (as yet unpurchased)
Hiking boots, walking shoes, sandals, bandaids
Books: bird book, Lonely Planet, two novels (small font, many pages)
Book light, head lamp
Binoculars (Christmas gift from Paul and Katherine - totally awesome)
Cameras - one mini for pocket and one 10X zoom for safari closeups
Extra memory cards for the cameras.
Battery recharger, extra batteries
Malaria medication
bug spray, sunscreen, sunglasses
Toiletries
Laundry soap, laundry line, sink stopper
Travel Pillow, water bottle
Big Back pack, small day pack, cool over the shoulder hunting sachel from Capital Iron (with bullet holders although I probably won't take bullets)
Well, I'm sure that more will be added but those are the very basics that I can remember right now.
Thursday, January 10, 2008
Our Itinerary
Feb 6: Leave Vancouver, overnight flight to Europe
Feb 7: Day in Amsterdam, overnight flight to Africa
Feb 8: Arrive in Nairobi, spend day at airport, (do not leave airport so as to not become known as the "First Western Tourist Killed" in the Kenya crisis), evening flight to Arushu.
Feb 9: Sleep off insanely long 3 days of travel.
First pre-"Kenya in Crisis" Itinerary, now defunct
Feb 9: Hide from unfriendlies in hotel pool.
Feb 10: Nairobi-Lake Nakuru. Arrive in time for an afternoon game drive. Area renowned for flamingos and sanctuary for black and white rhinos.
Feb 11: Maasai Mara - morning game drive, then off to Masi Mara reserve, with some of the highest densities of wildlife. Good chance of spotting lion, leopard, cheetah, elephant, and buffalo. (my Birthday with the Big 5)
Feb 12: Masai Mara. Full day of game drives.
Feb 13: Serengeti. Game drive from Masai Mara and cross into Tanzania. Serengeti contains 3 million large mammals. Unequalled beauty.
Feb 14: Serengeti. Full day game drive.
Feb 15: Serengeti - Ngorongoro Crater. Morning game drive in Serengeti, then off to crater where we descend to the crater floor where we hope to see some if not all of the BIG FIVE!
Feb 16: Ngorongoro Crater. Morning excursion to crater floor, a natural wonder of the world with a huge variety of game and birdlife. Afternoon Free.
Feb 17: Ngorongoro Highlands. Drive to the village of Nainokanoka where we meet Masai guides. Hike through the highlands and walk to Olmoti Crater to explore rim and surrounding forest on foot, hoping to see antelope. Later we drive to Lake Manyara Park for the night.
Feb 18: Lake Manyara - Kilimanjaro. Game drive in morning through park with lakes, woodlands and mountains, excellent game viewing. Then drive to Moshi to the base of Mt. Kilimanjaro.
Feb 19: Kilimanjaro. Spend day walking through forest around base of Mountain. Visit Maundi Crater before descending back to Moshi for night.
Feb 20: Mkomazi Game Reserve. Little visited reserve bordering on Tsavo West National park. Sometimes huge migratory herds of elephants. Then travel to Lushotoin the Usumbra Mountains.
Feb 21-22: Usumbra Mountains. Two free days to enjoy activities available here. Excellent flora and fauna isolated from other rainforests.
New "Tanzania is Even Better than Kenya Anyways" Itinerary
Feb 10: Arusha
Feb 11: Ngorogoro Crater - descend to the crater floor where hopefully, we will see the Big 5 (elephant, lion, leopard, buffalo, rhino). Still spending my Birthday with the BIG 5.
Feb 12: Ngorogoro Crater and Highlands - morning excursion to crater floor then afternoon drive to village of Nainokanoka where we meet up with our Masai guides. Then hike u to Omoti Crater, explore rim on foot looking for several species of antelope.
Feb 13-16: Serengeti - split time in this park between two locations to maximize game viewing opportunities. Morning and afternoon game drives
Feb 17: Lake Manyara. Final morning game drive in Serengeti then depart for Lake Manyara where rest of day is free.
Feb 18: Lake Manyara. Day spent on game drives through Lake Manyara National Park, one of Tz's most diverse parks. Combo of lakes, woodlands and mountains make for excellent game (and hopefully bird) viewing.
Feb 19: Moshi. Relaxing morning then head to Moshi for a free day.
Feb 20: Kilimanjaro. Spend the day walking through forest on slopes of Mt. Kilmanjaro. Visit Maundo crater before descending
Feb 21: Mkomazi Game Reserve. little visited reserve, bordering Kenya's West Tsavo National Park. Then head to Lushoto to spend the night.
Feb 22: Usumbara Mountaings. Free day in this biologically diverse area to hike, visit local village and bird watch for the opportunity to see unusual birdlife
Back to original tour plan
Feb 23: Dar Es Salaam. Travel to the bustling city for a free day.
Feb 24: Selous Game Reserve. Boat safari on the Rufiji River, vast network of swamps lagoons and channels, lots of birdlife.
Feb 25-26: Selous Game Reserve. Two days spent exploring reserve. Maji Moto hot springs, game drives and enjoy a walking safari. Lions, leopards, cheetah, buffalo, elephant & antelope.
Feb 27: Ruaha National Park: drive to Morogoro Park, one of the most remote wildlife areas in E. Africa. Lots of predators. Evening game drive.
Feb 28-29: Ruaha National Park. Explore in 4X4 vehicles.
Mar 1: Udzungwa Mountains. Pristine rainforest excellent for spotting primates plus many species of animals and birds found nowhere else.
Mar 2: Udzungwa Mountains. Hike forest To Sanje Waterfalls.
Mar 3-4: Dar Es Salaam
Feb 7: Day in Amsterdam, overnight flight to Africa
Feb 8: Arrive in Nairobi, spend day at airport, (do not leave airport so as to not become known as the "First Western Tourist Killed" in the Kenya crisis), evening flight to Arushu.
Feb 9: Sleep off insanely long 3 days of travel.
First pre-"Kenya in Crisis" Itinerary, now defunct
Feb 9: Hide from unfriendlies in hotel pool.
Feb 10: Nairobi-Lake Nakuru. Arrive in time for an afternoon game drive. Area renowned for flamingos and sanctuary for black and white rhinos.
Feb 11: Maasai Mara - morning game drive, then off to Masi Mara reserve, with some of the highest densities of wildlife. Good chance of spotting lion, leopard, cheetah, elephant, and buffalo. (my Birthday with the Big 5)
Feb 12: Masai Mara. Full day of game drives.
Feb 13: Serengeti. Game drive from Masai Mara and cross into Tanzania. Serengeti contains 3 million large mammals. Unequalled beauty.
Feb 14: Serengeti. Full day game drive.
Feb 15: Serengeti - Ngorongoro Crater. Morning game drive in Serengeti, then off to crater where we descend to the crater floor where we hope to see some if not all of the BIG FIVE!
Feb 16: Ngorongoro Crater. Morning excursion to crater floor, a natural wonder of the world with a huge variety of game and birdlife. Afternoon Free.
Feb 17: Ngorongoro Highlands. Drive to the village of Nainokanoka where we meet Masai guides. Hike through the highlands and walk to Olmoti Crater to explore rim and surrounding forest on foot, hoping to see antelope. Later we drive to Lake Manyara Park for the night.
Feb 18: Lake Manyara - Kilimanjaro. Game drive in morning through park with lakes, woodlands and mountains, excellent game viewing. Then drive to Moshi to the base of Mt. Kilimanjaro.
Feb 19: Kilimanjaro. Spend day walking through forest around base of Mountain. Visit Maundi Crater before descending back to Moshi for night.
Feb 20: Mkomazi Game Reserve. Little visited reserve bordering on Tsavo West National park. Sometimes huge migratory herds of elephants. Then travel to Lushotoin the Usumbra Mountains.
Feb 21-22: Usumbra Mountains. Two free days to enjoy activities available here. Excellent flora and fauna isolated from other rainforests.
New "Tanzania is Even Better than Kenya Anyways" Itinerary
Feb 10: Arusha
Feb 11: Ngorogoro Crater - descend to the crater floor where hopefully, we will see the Big 5 (elephant, lion, leopard, buffalo, rhino). Still spending my Birthday with the BIG 5.
Feb 12: Ngorogoro Crater and Highlands - morning excursion to crater floor then afternoon drive to village of Nainokanoka where we meet up with our Masai guides. Then hike u to Omoti Crater, explore rim on foot looking for several species of antelope.
Feb 13-16: Serengeti - split time in this park between two locations to maximize game viewing opportunities. Morning and afternoon game drives
Feb 17: Lake Manyara. Final morning game drive in Serengeti then depart for Lake Manyara where rest of day is free.
Feb 18: Lake Manyara. Day spent on game drives through Lake Manyara National Park, one of Tz's most diverse parks. Combo of lakes, woodlands and mountains make for excellent game (and hopefully bird) viewing.
Feb 19: Moshi. Relaxing morning then head to Moshi for a free day.
Feb 20: Kilimanjaro. Spend the day walking through forest on slopes of Mt. Kilmanjaro. Visit Maundo crater before descending
Feb 21: Mkomazi Game Reserve. little visited reserve, bordering Kenya's West Tsavo National Park. Then head to Lushoto to spend the night.
Feb 22: Usumbara Mountaings. Free day in this biologically diverse area to hike, visit local village and bird watch for the opportunity to see unusual birdlife
Back to original tour plan
Feb 23: Dar Es Salaam. Travel to the bustling city for a free day.
Feb 24: Selous Game Reserve. Boat safari on the Rufiji River, vast network of swamps lagoons and channels, lots of birdlife.
Feb 25-26: Selous Game Reserve. Two days spent exploring reserve. Maji Moto hot springs, game drives and enjoy a walking safari. Lions, leopards, cheetah, buffalo, elephant & antelope.
Feb 27: Ruaha National Park: drive to Morogoro Park, one of the most remote wildlife areas in E. Africa. Lots of predators. Evening game drive.
Feb 28-29: Ruaha National Park. Explore in 4X4 vehicles.
Mar 1: Udzungwa Mountains. Pristine rainforest excellent for spotting primates plus many species of animals and birds found nowhere else.
Mar 2: Udzungwa Mountains. Hike forest To Sanje Waterfalls.
Mar 3-4: Dar Es Salaam
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